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I am finishing up my first attempt at a classical. Want to make sure I get the bridge position right and in the past I have used a special rule for steel string which shows where the bridge goes. So......

If I understand it, I simply double the distance from the sound hole side of the nut to the 12th fret and then add a little bit for compensation? Perhaps 1.5mm?

Do I have this right? This is a Hauser style classical.

I guess once this is done I can play with the saddle to get more or less compensation as needed.

I use 2mm compensation but 1.5 is close and within range.

I just measure 650mm from the front of the nut to the front of the saddle. Usually the saddle is plenty thick enough to compensate however I might need.

Johns method should suffice if youre dead set on compensating your bridge. Me..I dont bother on my classicals and alot of other people dont either.

[QUOTE=Shawn] I use 2mm compensation but 1.5 is close and within range.[/QUOTE]

Does this mean you add 2.0mm to the total length (whatever that length is double to the 12th fret)??

Rich-after making hundreds of classicals and Flamencos I find a need to compensate for sure!
On a 650mm scale I add 2mm to the 12th to saddle length-then I use a 3mm saddle.
Set back from the front of the saddle is first high e-1mm
b 1.3mm,-g 1.5mm,d 0 comp.,-a 1.5mm ,e 2mm..
I have started to use the Gilbert set up where 1mm is cut off of the first fret to nut distance(from the nut side) and compensating the nut also!
This is the best tuning I've ever heard!
Check out www.byersguitars.com ALL the info you need to set up great compensation is there.
www.collinsguitars.comMike Collins38993.6549305556

I guess I'm in the camp of big compensation.... about 2.5mm for classical. I use a 660 scale. It seems to work well for me. Joe Beaver38993.8690277778

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

I have used and been happy with 2mm added to the scale length(650mm). That and working the saddle will get you real close. I've been removing about .5mm from the nut end of the fingerboard.

This has all worked out really well, but I'm going to start using the method that Mike Collins suggests.

If any of you have checked out Greg Byers site and read his intonation page and then do what he says you'll never have to guess again about how to do it right.

I work with players with as close to perfect pitch as you can get !
Man if they are not happy with the into -just forget the guitar!
And the plus is I can hear the difference also !
Play any chord after tuning and there is no slightly out of tune notes!
It really is worth the extra 30 minutes it takes to do it this way!

Mike Collins

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Mike Collins

Joe...2.5 on a 660mm scale is roughly equivalent to 2mm on a 650mm. The longer scale length also means that the tension of the string is different so additional compensation makes sense.

I generally use the Gilbert method that Greg Byers uses...I use a 3mm saddle also as it gives plenty of room to fine tune compensation...my numbers are very close to yours Mike.

I also use a "Gilbert Method" that was explained to me by Brian Burns. For a 650mm scale, the method I learned was to remove 1/32" (call it 0.030") from the nut edge of the fb, and to set the saddle back 0.060" (~1.5mm). With medium action, I've found this works very well.

Best,

Michael

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Live to Play, Play to Live